Apostolof's Blog

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Oops, I accidentally had a really great time


Sun setting in the sea behind tens of islands
Sunset from summit Korakas on Amorgos

Table of Contents

01. Introduction

02. The plan

03. Setup

04. Amorgos - Sleeping in churches 101

05. Patmos - Another journey begins

06. Leipsoi - Full of fish

07. Arkioi - Leave the boat, get a bike

08. Tilos - Back once again

09. Fournoi - Sick sick boy

10. Ikaria - Let it end, please

11. Journey back

12. Aftermath


Introduction

Every summer, I embark on an island-hopping, bikepacking trip that lasts about a month. I rarely plan anything in advance; I just hop on a train to Athens and make my way down to the Cyclades and the Dodecanese, where I wing it and go with the flow. This time, I had two weeks of leave followed by two weeks of remote work. Luckily, in the last week, there were also three days of public holiday, so I really only had to work for seven days during the whole month.

The route

This year, my journey involved a bit of zigzagging. I started in Amorgos, and since the only way to get to the Dodecanese (which are quieter, less touristy, and less expensive) was to go to Patmos, that's what I did. After that, I visited Leipsoi and Arkioi, both close to Patmos. When it was time to start working, I needed a familiar environment where I could find a quiet place to charge my laptop and work without much hassle. That's why I decided to return to Tilos; last year, I worked from there for three weeks and knew it would be perfect! After that, I made my way to Ikaria for the 15th-of-August panigiria, making sure to stop by Fournoi along the way.

Setup

This was my third time bikepacking, so I already had a travel setup that I've been steadily improving. The major change this year was reintroducing a tent. After last year's experience and the issues I faced from not bringing one, I decided the extra weight was worth it. I also bought a new lightweight self-inflating mat and sleeping bag that are more suitable for this style of travel. Lastly, perhaps the best piece of equipment I got was a pair of buckle straps that I used to secure the mat and sleeping bag on my handlebars. This meant that I could unmount them and set up for sleep "bivvy" style in less than ten minutes! Great!

Amorgos

The first day of the trip was intense. I cycled all the way from Katapola to Chora, which involved a good climb. At a café where I stopped for a bite, I met some locals who shared info about nearby hiking paths. I decided to tackle one of the smaller hikes nearby that lead to the third-highest point on the island with an amazing view. Later that night, I returned to the café and enjoyed a live gig featuring Indian music.

View of an island from a high point
View from the top, resembling a spine

The next day, I left Chora for Vroutsi. There, I visited the ancient city of Arkesine, an old settlement founded in the ninth century BCE. After exploring the ruins, I took a swim in the tiny bay below. Then, I continued on to the modern village of Arkesini. At a local tavern, I met Isidoros, and we decided to hike together to Korakas summit — the second-highest peak on the island.

Man sitting between the columns of a bell tower
Sitting in the bell tower of a small chapel in Arkesine

I spent a couple of days in Aigiali with a friend. We hit up some bars in Aigiali and visited Agios Pavlos beach. The road from Chora to Aigiali was fantastic — a good ascent followed by ten kilometers of downhill magic! Blue and turquoise waters on my left beneath an ever-blue sky and hills and mountains on my right made it one of the most enjoyable routes I've ever cycled.

Sun setting behind an island
Sun setting behind the small island of Nikouria

I cycled back to Katapola, met up with my friend again, and we hitchhiked to Kalofana village for a panigiri at Agia Paraskevi church. We feasted on patatato (goat with potatoes) and groats offered at the event while drinking psimeni raki and dancing until late at night. When the panigiri ended, we helped clean up; local volunteers were thrilled that two "foreigners" wanted to pitch in and welcomed us into their company with more food! After dawn, we started looking for a place to sleep until we were offered a small room meant for volunteers but was empty!

A man serving food from a big pot
A papous (grandpa) serving patatato for the people

I spent my last couple of days on Amorgos in Katapola and Chora. There, I found Parvas — an old traditional kafenio open since 1966 — that had a bouzouki (a type of Greek string instrument) sitting on a shelf. The owners let me play for a while and treated me to some watermelon ice cream!

A man playing the bouzouki
Me playing the bouzouki in Parvas

Patmos

Leaving Amorgos, I noticed my backpack had a big tear along the top handle down the length of the back. Luckily, upon reaching Patmos, I found someone who could fix it — good as new! Patmos had a much different vibe than Amorgos. In Scala — the biggest town — I discovered a book kiosk where anyone can borrow or take books off its shelves. After browsing for a while, I picked one at random that turned out to be an excellent read! I reached my camping spot at an awesome small cove with a tavern and some massive salt cedar trees. Later that afternoon, I visited Chora with its unique architecture, tiny alleys, and castle-like monasteries.

A straw matting on a beach held down by rocks with a stack of books and a hat on top of it
My hangout spot on the beach

Over the next few days, I explored the northern part of Patmos. I visited various picturesque villages and tried the local cuisine. One problem: there were no public showers anywhere! The salt from swimming started causing some itching issues. Fortunately, I stumbled upon a half-abandoned gas station with a working shower head out back. So there I spent half a day cleaning myself and my clothes 🤪

An old man driving a motorcycle, another man sitting on the attached truck
A papous driving a DIY, tricycle motorcycle with me hitchhiking on the trailer

Leipsoi

I arrived in Leipsoi late at night and took a stroll around its quiet main town. The next day, I made my way to where I'd camp at the beach while passing various small family farms along the way. At one farm, I bought some cheese, and the old lady running it insisted on treating me to a bottle of olive oil from their trees! Despite trying to explain that carrying extra weight wasn't ideal since I couldn't cook on the road, it was futile; so I had an extra 0.5 L of olive oil from that point on. I spent the next few days meeting new people and exploring mainly the eastern part of Leipsoi.

A cage with dozens of parrots
Dozens of parrots, probably some pirates nearby left them while getting their wooden legs re-polished

One day, based on recommendations from fellow campers about one of the best beaches on the island, I set off on what turned into quite an adventure! There was a mountain between our camp and the beach; instead of taking the boring paved road around it, I thought I'd off-trail hike over it instead. At first, climbing up involved scaling steep rock walls before reaching flatter terrain where walking became easier. But when I finally reached what should have been an incredible view at the top... I realized I'd left my phone behind! I'd stupidly left it perched atop some stockyard while jumping over it. Determined not to let that ruin my day, I continued hiking but soon faced another obstacle: dense bushes blocked my path towards the top of the hill! So back down to a lower point it was and traversing the mountain from there until finally reaching that beautiful beach — though heavily dehydrated and nearly heat-stroked by then! Regardless of how rough getting there was though — I was in great spirits! Met some cool people too who joined me for our hike back into town where I guzzled down like five liters of water! Later I went back to the stockyard and picked up my phone.

An olive tree under the night sky with the galaxy in the background
The night sky from near my tent

Arkioi

Next up was Arkioi — a tiny island right next door to Leipsoi — so small it doesn't even have paved roads; most paths are concrete or dirt tracks! Spent one lovely day visiting one of its few accessible beaches by road — such a charm packed into so little space! Little else can be said about Arkioi other than it's just this peaceful little gem!

A bike under a big tree
At the start of the footpath to my beach for the night

Tilos

I reached Tilos in the dead of night. After making my way to the free camp spot, I set up my tent and had to work for the first time in two weeks. It was a huge change and tough to get through. Regardless, I was in one of my favorite places, so I knew I would enjoy myself. The first few days were all about resting and relaxing, trying to gear up for the next islands. I found a kid I met last year who lent me their bouzouki, so I had a small glenti (fest) with a few friends on the beach one night!

A woman playing kanonaki and a man playing bouzouki
Me and Eleonora playing music on the beach

While resting, I also helped organize a fun treasure hunt activity! It was the perfect chance for me to give away the bottle of olive oil I'd been carrying since Leipsoi as a prize for the winners, along with a jar of honey that someone else provided. We came up with clues that led people to various spots around the camp. Each of us had a role that involved giving out helpful information in exchange for solving a riddle. My role was musical; I would play a song, and players had to guess its name before I answered their question. So, I spent the afternoon sitting next to the canteen playing bouzouki. When the hunt ended, we all gathered in the canteen for a massive glenti, playing music for hours with over 50 people singing together.

People standing next to each other smiling
Getting ready for the treasure hunt
A poster inviting people to take part on a treasure hunt activity
The poster for the hunt
Two rocks, one has free Palestine written on it the other has a rhyme
One of the clues and the final password

Fournoi

I was joined on Fournoi by two girls I met on Tilos! We arrived (again) in the middle of the night. On our first day on the island, there was a panigiri with delicious food and traditional dances. I explored the main town and nearby bays, one of which was my camping spot. This island has an interesting shape, featuring dozens of small coves, each with its own little beach boasting crystal-clear waters and fine sand.

A boat on a beautiful turquoise sea
This is literally just an average beach on this island

Sadly, during my first few days, I got sick — probably due to the constant strong winds we faced at night and my all-nighters in Tilos. I took a COVID test and even visited the local rural doctor. With a fever and runny nose, I felt exhausted and couldn't cycle long distances; staying alert was a struggle. I took a sick day from work to chill out and hoped I would get better. Another frustrating incident occurred when I returned to my beach spot one night only to find someone had moved my stuff elsewhere. Since my tent was already damaged and too risky to set up again, I'd left my mat, sleeping bag, and some other gear neatly packed at my spot. After searching around in the dark, I found them on top of some rocks — so I had to find another place to sleep among all the tents crowded on the beach.

A man standing on a concrete ledge with a bike in front
Leaving Fournoi

Ikaria

I left Fournoi still feeling sick but hopeful that I would recover soon. My first night in Ikaria was spent in a room that allowed me to rest well; by the next day, I felt much better. However, fatigue lingered — I couldn't cycle at all. Instead, I made my way to a nearby beach where I stayed for a few days while commuting back to the nearest village for basic facilities. Those nights were tough; bivvying out in the open while being battered by relentless wind made it challenging as I dealt with fever and sweated like a sinner in church. Despite these misfortunes, I still had bursts of energy and went on small adventures exploring abandoned buildings scattered around the south part of the island.

A piece of cheesecake and a coffee on a table
Yummy and super healthy breakfast

On August 15th (a big-deal Christian holiday in Greece), I felt somewhat better and decided to check out one of the local panigiria. There was music, dancing, eating, and drinking as always! I danced as much as possible but left early to catch some sleep afterward. The next day, I needed to find a way to reach the northern port of Ikaria and take the ferry back to Piraeus. There was a bus heading there; however, initially, the driver wouldn't let me put my bike in the baggage compartment! Stressing over how I'd get off the island crossed my mind — maybe hitchhiking or paying someone for a ride? Thankfully, the driver took pity on me, and after some rearranging of the luggage we made room for my bike!

Two kittens lying next to their mother
These cats speak Greek

Return

The ferry docked in Piraeus around two o'clock. That night, I stayed in a terrible hotel before heading into the city center the next day. Stopping for coffee, I foolishly thought I'd be able to catch the midday train to Thessaloniki — psych! The rules had changed; bikes were only allowed on the first two trains of the day! This meant an extra day in Athens with no plans ahead of me. Luckily, a friend kept me company, and we had a great time together.

A man on a train station platform
Finally back in Athen's train station

Aftermath

After all these times bikepacking, it seems I've learned almost nothing! No preparation — just relying on luck and people's good vibes around me to carry me through it all. But you know what? I had an excellent time! So improvising really works sometimes.

I especially cherish the time spent with my friend on Amorgos and all the new people I met during this trip. I've come to appreciate company more than fearing it might hold me back. Also, I've realized how wonderful it is to have a musical instrument with me — I will definitely try bringing one next time!